It all started in April when my best friend, and riding mate, Curtis came to me about an opportunity to go help build a house for missionaries in Papua New Guinea. For reference, that is just north of Australia and about 6 degrees south of the equator. I knew I had the skills, but figuring out if I could be away from work for 3 weeks was a big hurdle. Curtis jokingly added that we may be able to add a little extra time in New Zealand and ride motorcycles on our way home.
As time passed, and details were coming together, the riding wasn’t top priority. With about 4 weeks until we were to leave, we got serious. Many hours were spent researching companies that would rent a motorcycle for about 8 hours for us, on a Sunday. We were striking out left and right, and then it happened. With about a week left, we found the most reasonably priced and open on a Sunday company, Paradise Motorcycle Tours. Mike, who owns the company, contacted us personally and worked with us to get things set before we left the country, since we would be without much internet access for the first two and a half weeks of our time in PNG. At first he was just going to rent us a couple bikes, and then a few days before we departed the US, he asked if he and a riding mate may come along. We both thought, “Of course, we would love to have two guys that know the area and love riding along for the ride.”
Our schedule for New Zealand was going to be tight, we would land at 11:30pm Saturday night, then lose and hour, as it was their daylight savings “spring forward”, be up by 7 am to meet up with Mike and his riding mate at the hostel we were staying in around 8am. Mike assured us before we left that he would have a great ride planned and we would still be able to get back to the airport for our flight at 7:30pm.
Fast forward to September 25th, we sent an email to Scott at Skyway Lodge Hostel and Mike with Paradise Motorcycle tours to confirm our plans. They emailed back and we were set. Scott would pick us up from the airport and in the morning Mike would come with the bikes to the hostel. Mike and Alison, who own Paradise Motorcycle Tours, came with Mike’s mate Paul just after 8am. Mike and Paul unloaded the bikes while Alison took Curtis and me through the paperwork and got us set up with riding coats, pants and helmets. The bikes were brand new BMWs. I would be riding a F650GS and Curtis would be on a R1200GS. My normal bike is a 1993 Suzuki Intruder 800 and Curtis’ is a 1995 BMW R1100R. Paul was on his own bike, a black Kawasaki Concourse and Mike was riding one of his bikes, a BMW R1200RT.
It was sunny when we got up, and was quickly turning cloudy. The temp was somewhere in the mid to upper 40s Fahrenheit, which is rather chilly when thinking about an 8 hour ride. We got set up, took a couple pictures and we were off. The plan was to have Paul lead, Curtis and me in the middle, then Mike follow. This was to help us cope with driving on the “wrong” side of the road.
We left Auckland, passed through the centre of Manukau City and headed South on State Highway 1. We then went South East on SH2 and then turned onto SH25, East across the Hauraki Plain and the long single lane bridge over the Waihou River (Firth of Thames) to Kopu, our first stop. We were going to stop at a small restaurant, but they were closed, so we had some items we could warm up and coffee from a convenience store. The weather was grey and a little rainy, but the heated grips and wonderful riding gear we were provided kept me quite warm.
This is when the fun started. Leaving Kopu, we turned inland on SH25A through the Kauaeranga Valley and over the Coromandel Forest Park Ranges where we saw our first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean. The roads were rarely straight and the landscape was lush greens. The sun was finally peaking through the clouds and the temps were into the mid 50s. We stopped briefly at Tairua, on the Tairua Harbour below the Maori Pa sculptured slopes of the twin peaks of Paku. The landscape was breathtaking.
We had more of the same amazing riding for about another hour when we stopped in Whitianga for lunch at a small roadside café where we got a chance to get to know each other a bit. I had a delicious burger and Coke. We found out that Paul is a kitchen installer and just loves to ride on the weekends. Mike was formerly an engineer but decided to start his own motorcycle hire company. This was due to the nearly non-existent customer service and bikes that seemed to be lower rate or even in need of repair. Mike’s philosophy was to give the best possible customer service, top rate bikes and great riding equipment for those that need to use riding pants, coats or helmets.
The weather was now warmer and sunny at about 18-19 degrees Celsius, according to my motorcycle was displaying, which is around 65 Fahrenheit. Up to this point in the ride I wasn’t feeling comfortable enough to push the bike quite like I wanted to. I have been riding for over 10 years, taken 3 motorcycle tours of over 2500 miles in the US, but this was all a bit different. When we started back to the North I decided to go ahead and follow Paul to see how that went. Paul was moving quicker than Curtis and I felt comfortable riding for a little while, so I thought I would try to keep up. After another quick photo pit-stop at Coroglen Tavern, a pub that is 140 years old according to the t-shirts of the staff.
We continued inland on SH25, and this is when my ride experience changed drastically. Paul and I started pulling away after some light curves and passing cars quickly, and of course, legally and safely. By the time we reached the best riding in recent memory we had left Curtis and Mike about 2 miles behind us. We started getting into some really tight curves and were climbing steeply to the top of the hills with fantastic views over the Coromandel Peninsular and the Hauraki Gulf. Paul and I stopped off at the top to wait for Mike and Curtis and to take in the sights. From the top of the hill you could see both sides of the peninsula. View was what can only be described as breathtaking.
We took off the same as we came up the other side, Paul, me, Curtis, Mike. This side was much the same as the prior, except we were descending. This proved to be a fight between second and third gear. Some of the corners were completely blind, even with their own convex mirrors strategically placed. One corner had a speed posted at 15 kph, which you can normally look at and add at least 10 to and be comfortable on a motorcycle, but this one was legitimately sharp. Paul and I pulled ahead again and we came out at the bottom of the steep descent and turned toward the historic gold rush town of Coromandel. There was a straightaway that was wide open and I saw Paul get on his Kawasaki, and I decided to follow suit. We safely and comfortably topped out and slowed before entering town. It was a great way to cool the bikes off from the low speed cornering of the drop in elevation. Coromandel town had a population over 10,000 in the early 1900’s gold rush era. It now has a population of 1500. We walked around for about 15 minutes and refuelled. By this time we were realizing it was going to be a little tight to get back by 4:30, as originally thought.
Then headed South on SH25 with the Hauraki Gulf on our right all the way to Thames, which had a population of 30,000 and over a hundred Hotels in the Gold rush era. On our way to Thames, we got stuck behind a vehicle that decided not to utilize any of the numerous pull offs to allow faster traffic to get by. I was annoyed, but decided to take a look to my right when I could, which provided some amazing views with the sun glistening off the bay. The road followed the coast all the way to Thames with most of it being cut right along the ridges, so to our left was a wall of rock, and the right were fantastic views the whole way back to where we started around the peninsula.
Once we got back to Kopu we stopped at the café we had originally looked to stop at for a quick coffee and restroom break. We figured if we made good time, we would be able to get back to Auckland to the hostel by around 5:15pm. We would have to hurry though. We made haste and got out of Kopu quickly and started making clean passes and rushing back to the 4 lane highway. Mike and I broke away from Curtis and Paul in all the passing, but we grouped back up and made it into Auckland right at 5:15. We had to hurry to get some last pictures and finalize a few things before Scott got us run to the airport. Curtis and I agreed that as we settled in for an 11 hour flight back to LA that we had just spent the first half of our September 27th the best way at all possible. Since we were crossing back over the international dateline, we would be landing around 10am on the same day in LA and get to live September 27th again on our trek home.
If you are ever in Auckland or Christchurch and you want to rent a motorcycle, Mike will definitely take care of you at Paradise Motorcycle Tours. He gave us a ride we will remember forever. His operation is truly top notch. If I ever make it back to New Zealand, and I sure hope I get the chance, I will be getting a hold of Mike and Alison so my wife and I can both experience the spectacular riding and great customer service provided by New Zealand roads and Paradise MC Tours. They can be found on the web at
www.paradisemotorcycletours.co.nz. If you need a night or few weeks lodging on the cheap, Scott is great and they are fairly close to the airport. We were really only there for a matter of 8 hours, but they really took good care of us. Airport Skyway Lodge can be found at
www.skywaylodge.co.nz .
-Ryan Faircloth